As autumn deepens, there is a place that becomes covered in a breathtaking 'golden carpet.'
The 'Shingu Kumano Shrine' located in Kitakata City. I have personally had the experience of piloting the Kumano Sanzan in Kishu (Wakayama Prefecture), and I feel a special affinity for this shrine that enshrines the same deity.
For many years, I often visited in autumn to see the "Great Ginkgo Tree Light-Up," but the true charm of this shrine actually lies in the "mysterious giant structure" quietly standing behind the ginkgo.
This time, let's explore the mystery of the unique architecture from the late Heian period, designated as an Important Cultural Property of the country, called "Nagato (長床)."
[Architectural Mystery] Why are there absolutely no "walls"?
Upon entering the precincts, what first catches your eye is the "Nagato," which supports a massive thatched roof.
There are 44 thick columns, each about 45 cm in diameter, arranged at equal intervals, and astonishingly, there are "no walls or doors, creating a completely open space."
It is said to follow the "Shinden-zukuri (noble residence style)" from the late Heian period to the early Kamakura period, but who exactly built such a special structure and for what purpose? How do you reason this?
A "spacious area" that breaks down social barriers
One theory suggests that it was a training hall for "Yamabushi (ascetics)," and recent research has proposed a very interesting view that it was a large space for shrine officials to gather for banquets (hospitality) without regard to social rank.
Because there are no walls, the wind flows through, and social barriers are removed. It seems to convey the generous atmosphere of ancient times.
Hida's craftsmen and Amanojaku? "The Seven Wonders of Nagato"
The mystery of Nagato is not just in the structure of the building. Locally, there are "Seven Wonders" associated with this hall that have been passed down.
- Birds do not perch on the roofs of the three shrines.
- Birds do not build nests in Nagato.
- Mosquitoes do not enter Nagato.
- Only in the northwest corner of Nagato, there are no boards laid down.
- Even if a fire breaks out in the village, more than two houses do not catch fire.
- The chestnut bears fruit in its first year.
- The bear comes and pays homage before the deity.
What is particularly interesting is "number 4."
According to legend, a craftsman from Hida vowed, "I will build this worship hall in one night!" and worked diligently. However, a mischievous yokai named Amanojaku mimicked the crowing of a rooster (Cock-a-doodle-doo!), causing the craftsman to misunderstand and think, "Has dawn already broken...?" and he stopped the construction, leaving one corner of the floorboard unlaid.
One cannot help but feel the humor and folkloric romance of the past in the "imperfection (gap)" intentionally left in a perfect building.
The 800-year-old giant ginkgo and the footprints of the Genji
Standing majestically in front of this long hall is the giant ginkgo (a natural monument of Kitakata City) that reaches a height of 30m and a trunk circumference of 7.7m.
It is said to be 800 years old, and it is recorded in Edo period literature (Shinpen Aizu Fudoki) as an ancient tree that has existed since the establishment of the shrine.
Embark on a journey to feel the overwhelming beauty of space and the breath of history
How was it?
Standing between the pillars of the wall-less long hall and gazing at the golden ginkgo leaves dancing in the autumn breeze, one is enveloped in a mysterious sensation of sharing the same time as the ascetics and warriors of the Heian period.
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in the [Academic style] that guide you through such overwhelming beauty of space and precious cultural properties like the nationally designated important cultural property "Monju Bosatsu Riding a Lion" in the treasure hall, accompanied by deep explanations from our guides.
"I want to experience the wind path created by the 44 pillars, not just see it in pictures," and "I want to enjoy an intellectual 'aha' experience connecting the dots of history"
If you feel this way, why not join us for an adult fieldwork to unravel the deep architectural mysteries of Aizu? We look forward to the day we can discuss the seven wonders of the long hall with everyone.
