As autumn deepens, there is a place covered in a breathtaking 'golden carpet' throughout the grounds.
The "Shingu Kumano Shrine" located in Kitakata City. I personally have experience visiting the Kumano Sanzan in Kishu (Wakayama Prefecture), and I feel a special closeness to this shrine, which enshrines the same deity.
For many years, I often visited to see the autumn "Great Ginkgo Tree Light-Up", but the true charm of this shrine actually lies in the "mysterious giant architecture" quietly standing behind the ginkgo tree.
This time, let's explore the mystery of the unique architecture from the late Heian period, designated as an Important Cultural Property of the country, called "Nagato (長床)".
[Architectural Mystery] Why are there no "walls" at all?
Upon entering the precincts, what catches your eye first is the "Nagato", which supports a massive thatched roof.
There are 44 thick columns, each about 45 cm in diameter, arranged at equal intervals, and astonishingly, there are "no walls or doors, creating a completely open space".
It is said to follow the "Shinden-zukuri (noble residence style)" from the late Heian period to the early Kamakura period, but who on earth built such a special structure, and for what purpose? How do you all deduce this?
A "spacious open space" that removes the barriers of status
One theory suggests that it was a dojo where "yamabushi (ascetics)" conducted rigorous training, and recent research has proposed a very interesting perspective that it was a large space for shrine officials to gather without hierarchy for banquets (hospitality), regardless of status.
Because there are no walls, the wind flows through, and the barriers of status are removed. It seems to convey the generous atmosphere of ancient times.
Hida's craftsmen and Amanojaku? "The Seven Wonders of Nagato"
The mystery of Nagato is not just in the structure of the building. Locally, there are "seven wonders" associated with this hall that have been passed down.
- Birds do not perch on the roofs of the three shrines.
- Birds do not build nests in Nagato.
- Mosquitoes do not enter Nagato.
- Only the northwest corner of Nagato has no boards laid down.
- Even if a fire breaks out in the village, it won't spread to more than two houses.
- The chestnut tree bears fruit in its first year.
- A bear comes and pays homage at the shrine.
What is particularly interesting is "No. 4".
According to legend, a craftsman from Hida vowed, "I will build this worship hall in one night!" and worked diligently. However, a mischievous yokai named Amanojaku mimicked the crowing of a rooster (Cock-a-doodle-doo!), causing the craftsman to mistakenly think, "Has dawn already broken...?" and he stopped the construction, leaving one corner with the floorboards unfinished.
One cannot help but feel the humor and folkloric romance of the past in the deliberately left "imperfection (gap)" of this perfect building.
The 800-year-old giant ginkgo and the footprints of the Genji
Standing majestically in front of this long hall is the giant ginkgo (a natural monument of Kitakata City) that reaches a height of 30m and a trunk circumference of 7.7m.
It is said to be 800 years old, and it is recorded in Edo period books (Shinpen Aizu Fudoki) as an ancient tree that has existed since the shrine's founding.
A "living witness" of history
This shrine itself is said to have originated when Minamoto no Yoriyoshi and his son Yoshiie (Hachiman Taro) enshrined it from Kishu Kumano as a prayer for victory during the Mutsu expedition.
This giant ginkgo has quietly watched over the tumultuous history of Aizu, including the prayers of the Genji warriors, subsequent wars, and the collapse and reconstruction of the long hall due to the Aizu earthquake (1611), making it a "living witness".
A journey to feel the overwhelming beauty of space and the breath of history
How was it?
Standing between the pillars of the long hall without walls and gazing at the golden ginkgo leaves dancing in the autumn breeze, one is enveloped in a mysterious sensation, as if sharing the same time as the ascetics and warriors of the Heian period.
At "Tabinoito", we offer a tour in the Academic style that guides you through such overwhelming beauty of space and precious cultural properties, such as the nationally designated important cultural property "Monju Bosatsu Riding a Lion", along with deep explanations from our guides.
"I want to experience not just through photos, but feel the wind passage created by the 44 pillars" and "I want to enjoy an intellectual 'Aha' experience where the dots of history connect".
If you feel this way, why not join us for an adult fieldwork to unravel the deep architectural mysteries of Aizu? We look forward to the day we can discuss the seven wonders of the long hall with everyone.
The ultimate academic tour connecting the dots of history
A journey that goes beyond a stamp rally, feeling the breath of the people of the time.
A dedicated guide will explain the mysteries of history spread across all of Aizu.
First, feel free to consult with us on LINE.
