I still remember when I was in middle school, my teacher said, 'I went to Sazae-do on my day off. It was an interesting building.'
As an adult, when I actually stepped into that building, I thought, "So this is what the teacher was talking about...!" and experienced a strange sensation as if the world was bending, while picturing the teacher's face.
The smell of old wood that has absorbed history and the mysterious experience of losing my sense of balance as I walked.
This time, I will guide you to the deep mystery of the unique wooden architecture in the world, the "Sazae-do (official name: Kyū Shōsō-ji Entsū Sansō-dō)" located on Mount Iimori in Aizu-Wakamatsu, famous for the Byakkotai.
A Möbius strip? The mystery of the "double helix" that never crosses paths.
The biggest feature of Sazae-do is that it has a slope (corridor) shaped like a "double helix," similar to the structure of DNA.
As you spiral up the incline to reach the summit (Taiko Bridge) in a clockwise direction, you will then descend another slope, creating a one-way structure where "those going up and those going down never cross paths even once on their way to the exit," resembling an optical illusion or a Möbius strip.
Why was such a complex building constructed?
The "VR Pilgrimage Space" dreamed of by the common people of Edo
During the Edo period, there was a huge boom in Kannon pilgrimages, such as the "Saigoku Thirty-three Kannon" among the common people. However, traveling to far-off western Japan was a daunting task both in terms of time and finances.
Thus, the monk Ikudō, who built this hall, came up with an idea. He arranged 33 Kannon statues along the slope, creating a system where simply walking around inside the hall would yield the same merits as a pilgrimage.
[Global Mystery] Did Da Vinci's idea cross the sea?
There is a legend that the monk Ikudō conceived this double helix structure by "twisting two paper cords together." However, on the other hand, there are whispers of a very romantic "global mystery."
In fact, at the center of France's World Heritage site, Château de Chambord, there is a double helix staircase that looks remarkably similar, and it is said that its designer was none other than Leonardo da Vinci.
During the Edo period, the lifting of the ban on Western books by Tokugawa Yoshimune (Kyōhō Reforms) led to the introduction of Western perspective and architectural illustrations from Nagasaki to Japan.
It is theorized that da Vinci's design philosophy was documented in European books, crossed the sea, reached the Dutch scholars in Akita, and eventually influenced the design of Aizu's Sazae-do.
A miracle born from the fusion of genius da Vinci's intellect and the wooden craftsmanship of Aizu. Which romance do you believe in: the "cord theory" or the "da Vinci theory"?
[From a Folklore Perspective] A dragon soaring in the heavens or a serpent god crawling on the ground?
Additionally, there is a personal highlight that always makes me go "Ah!" as a guide.
That is the "dragon carvings" that wrap around the entrance and pillars of the hall.
Generally, when we think of dragons in shrines and temples, we imagine a sacred and noble figure flying in the sky (a divine beast). However, the dragon of the Sazae-do has a different appearance. It gives off a primitive, wriggling energy reminiscent of a "snake" that crawls on the ground.
Traces of Hidden Indigenous Beliefs
In fact, right next to the Sazae-do is a hall called "Ugajin-do". Ugajin is a god depicted as a snake coiled up, with the head of an old man, representing good fortune.
Perhaps in the mind of the craftsman who carved the sculpture, the image of the "sacred snake (Ugajin)" that was worshipped in the region was strongly intertwined with the lofty heavenly dragon. Searching for these traces of "local indigenous beliefs" that are not found in textbooks is one of the joys of historical exploration.
Awakening Intellectual Excitement in an Academic Space
How was it?
It is not just an "old hall with a strange shape"; there are the earnest prayers of the common people of Edo, the latest Western architectural techniques that may have crossed the sea, and the deep-rooted folk beliefs of the region intricately intertwined.
At "Tabinoito", we offer tours in an Academic style that allow you to unravel the beauty of architecture and the mysteries of history with your own eyes and experiences.
The unique scent emitted by wooden architecture and that strange slope that distorts your sense of balance.
Would you like to get lost with us in a different space where the mysteries of Da Vinci and the prayers of the Edo period intersect?
[Supplement: Fun Facts about "Sazae-do" Across the Country]
In fact, there are several halls of the style called "Sazae-do (Sansou-do)" from Kanto to Tohoku, some of which are referred to as "Japan's Three Great Sazae-do". However, the only one in the world that has a complete "double helix structure (slope)" is the Sazae-do in Aizu.
|
Name |
Location |
Features |
|---|---|---|
|
Aizu Sazae-do |
Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture |
[Important Cultural Property] The only wooden double helix (slope) structure in Japan. |
|
Seijinin Hyakutai Kannon Hall |
Honjo City, Saitama Prefecture |
Established in memory of the Great Tenmei Famine. One of Japan's three major Sazae-dōs with a two-story exterior and three internal layers. |
|
Sōgenji Sazae-dō |
Ota City, Gunma Prefecture |
The largest in Japan with three internal layers. Also one of Japan's three major Sazae-dōs. |
|
Chōzenji Sanseidō |
Toride City, Ibaraki Prefecture |
Three-story interior with a mechanism that collects offerings on the first floor. |
|
Dairyūji Rakan-dō |
Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture |
A luxurious plastered structure with an exterior resembling Nagoya Castle's main keep. |
※ Additionally, there are Sanzō-dōs in places like Nishiarai Daishi in Tokyo. It’s interesting to compare the architectural structures of Sazae-dōs across different regions.
【The Ultimate Academic Tour Connecting the Dots of History】
This journey goes beyond a stamp rally, allowing you to feel the breath of people from that time.
A dedicated guide will explain the mysteries of history spread throughout Aizu.
Feel free to consult us via LINE first.
