I still remember when I was in middle school, my teacher said, 'I went to Sazae-do on my day off. It was an interesting building.'
As an adult, when I actually stepped into that building, I thought, "So this is what the teacher was talking about...!" and while imagining the teacher's face, I experienced a strange sensation as if the world was bending.
The smell of old wood that has absorbed history and the mysterious experience of losing my sense of balance while walking.
This time, I will guide you into the deep mystery of the unique wooden architectural wonder "Sazae-do (official name: Kyu Shōsōji Entsu Sansōdō)" located on Mount Iimori in Aizu-Wakamatsu, famous for the Byakkotai.
A Möbius strip? The mystery of the "double helix" that never crosses paths.
The biggest feature of Sazae-do is that it has a slope (corridor) shaped like a "double helix" similar to the structure of DNA.
As you spiral upwards to the top (Taiko Bridge) in a clockwise direction, you will then descend another slope, creating a one-way structure where "those going up and those going down never cross paths even once"—it's like a trick picture or a Möbius strip.
Why was such a complex building constructed?
The "VR Pilgrimage Space" dreamed of by the common people of Edo
During the Edo period, there was a huge boom in Kannon pilgrimages among the common people, such as the "Saigoku 33 Kannon". However, traveling to far-off western Japan was a daunting task both in terms of time and finances.
Therefore, the monk Ikudo, who built this hall, came up with an idea. He arranged 33 Kannon statues along the slope, creating a system where just by walking around inside the hall, one could gain the same merit as a pilgrimage.
[Global Mystery] Did Da Vinci's idea cross the sea?
There is a legend that the monk Ikudo thought of this double helix structure by twisting two strands of paper. However, on the other hand, there are whispers of a very romantic "global mystery."
In fact, at the center of France's World Heritage site "Château de Chambord," there is a double helix staircase that looks just like this, and it is said that its designer was none other than Leonardo da Vinci.
During the Edo period, the lifting of the ban on Western books by Tokugawa Yoshimune (the Kyōhō Reforms) led to the introduction of Western perspective and architectural illustrations from Nagasaki to Japan.
It is theorized that da Vinci's design philosophy was recorded in European books, which crossed the sea to reach the Dutch scholars in Akita, eventually leading to the design of Aizu's Sazae-do.
A miracle born from the fusion of genius da Vinci's intellect and the wooden craftsmanship of Aizu. Which romantic theory do you believe in, the "paper twist theory" or the "da Vinci theory"?
[From a Folklore Perspective] A dragon soaring in the heavens, or a serpent god crawling on the ground?
Additionally, there is a personal highlight that always makes me go "Wow" as a guide.
That is the "dragon carvings" that wrap around the entrance and pillars of the hall.
Generally, when we think of dragons in shrines and temples, we imagine a sacred and noble figure (mythical beast) soaring through the sky. However, the dragon of the Sazae-do has a different appearance. It evokes a primitive, writhing energy akin to a "snake" that crawls on the ground.
Traces of Hidden Indigenous Beliefs
In fact, right next to the Sazae-do, there is a hall called "Ugajin-do". Ugajin is a deity depicted as a snake coiled up with the head of an old man, a god of fortune.
Perhaps in the mind of the craftsman who carved the sculpture, the image of the "sacred snake (Ugajin)" that was worshipped locally was strongly intertwined with the lofty heavenly dragon. Searching for these traces of "local indigenous beliefs" that are not found in textbooks is one of the joys of historical exploration.
Awakening Intellectual Excitement in an Academic Space
How was it?
It is not just an "old hall with a strange shape"; it intertwines the earnest prayers of Edo commoners, the latest Western architectural techniques that may have crossed the sea, and the deep-rooted folk beliefs of the region.
At Tabinoito, we offer tours in an Academic style that unravel the mysteries of architectural beauty and history while allowing you to see and experience them with your own eyes.
The unique scent emitted by wooden architecture and that strange slope that distorts your sense of balance.
Why not get lost with us in a different space where the mysteries of Da Vinci and the prayers of the Edo period intersect?
[Supplement: Trivia about "Sazae-do" across the country]
In fact, there are several halls of the style called "Sazae-do (Sansou-do)" from Kanto to Tohoku, some of which are referred to as "Japan's Three Great Sazae-do". However, the only one in the world with a complete "double helix structure (slope)" is this Sazae-do in Aizu.
|
Name |
Location |
Features |
|---|---|---|
|
Aizu Sazae-do |
Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture |
[Important Cultural Property] The only wooden double helix (slope) structure in Japan. |
|
Seishin-in Hyakutai Kannon Hall |
Honjo City, Saitama Prefecture |
Established as a memorial for the Great Tenmei Famine. One of Japan's three major Sazae-dōs, featuring a two-story exterior and three internal layers. |
|
Sōgen-ji Sazae-dō |
Ota City, Gunma Prefecture |
With three internal layers, it is the largest in Japan. This is also one of Japan's three major Sazae-dōs. |
|
Chōzen-ji Sanseido |
Toride City, Ibaraki Prefecture |
Three-story interior. There is a mechanism that collects offerings on the first floor. |
|
Dairyū-ji Rakan-dō |
Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture |
A luxurious plastered structure with an exterior resembling Nagoya Castle's main keep. |
※ Other Sazae-dōs also exist, such as the Nishiarai Daishi in Tokyo. It is interesting to compare the architectural structures of Sazae-dōs across different regions.
【The Ultimate Academic Tour Connecting Points of History】
This journey goes beyond a stamp rally, allowing you to feel the breath of people from that time.
A dedicated guide will explain the historical mysteries spread throughout Aizu.
First, feel free to consult us via LINE.
