As a child, there was a 'red bridge' that always caught my attention whenever I passed by in the car. Do you have a place in your daily scenery that lingers in your memory with the thought, 'What is that?'
As an adult, I happened to stop by that place during a solo drive, and there, many people were digging into the ground, enthusiastically conducting excavation research. I remember being strongly moved at that moment, thinking, 'I want to unearth the romance of history too!' That was the starting point for my deep engagement with Aizu's history.
That place is the nationally designated historic site "Enichiji Ruins" in Bandai Town.
The "Hieizan of Tohoku" that existed in Aizu
Enichiji was founded in the early Heian period (807) and has been a major temple that has etched history in this land for nearly a thousand years until it was abandoned in the early Meiji period. At its peak, it was recorded as a massive religious city with "3,800 sub-temples, with temple roofs lined as far as the eye could see," and it once held such influence that it was called the "Hieizan of Tohoku."
The founder of this great temple was a Buddhist monk named "Tokuitsu." He lived during the same era as Kukai and Saicho, but he was also a figure who engaged in a "great debate" that shook the history of Japanese Buddhism far away from the central regions (Nara and Kyoto) in this Aizu area.
[Buddhist Mystery] Can anyone become a Buddha? "Japan's Largest Buddhist Debate"
At that time, Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect, preached that "anyone can attain enlightenment and become a Buddha (Ichijo)." In contrast, Tokuitsu, who was in Aizu, directly countered this. He argued that "there are inherent differences in people's abilities and natures, and unfortunately, there are those who cannot attain enlightenment (Sanjo and Gosei Kabetsu Theory)."
The Greatest Confrontation in Japanese Buddhist History: The "San'itsu Gonjitsuron Debate"
This is known as the "San'itsu Gonjitsuron Debate," a historical debate that fiercely exchanged opinions in writing for five years.
In contrast to Saicho's ideal of "everyone being saved," Tokuitsu's claims may sound a bit harsh. However, Tokuitsu was an elite who mastered the cutting-edge study of "Yogacara," which logically analyzes the workings of the human mind and consciousness. His rebuttal was not just an idealistic argument; it was a reflection of his serious view of "human reality."
Saicho, who advocates ideals, and Tokuitsu, who looks at reality. If you lived in this era, which teaching would you deeply resonate with?
Why did Tokuitsu choose "Aizu and Bandai"?
So, why did such a genius monk choose Aizu in Tohoku instead of the glamorous stage of the capital? There are several reasons to consider.
One is the existence of the rich nature of Mount Bandai and the belief in sacred mountains. Also, it was a transportation hub. However, more interestingly, Tokuitsu intentionally distanced himself from the "central Buddhism connected to state power." He believed that by distancing himself from politics and vested interests, he could build a "pure land of faith and practice" in this quiet Aizu area.
Prayer to "Yakushi Nyorai" that Supports Local People
As evidence, the principal image he chose for Enichiji was not the "Amitabha Buddha for going to paradise after death," which would later become popular, but rather the "Yakushi Nyorai who saves people facing illness and suffering in this world."
He aimed to support local people fighting against harsh nature and epidemics, healing the suffering right in front of them. This was the kind of Buddhism Tokuitsu aspired to.
A journey to revive the temple complex and uncover unknown history
Afterward, Keijitsu-ji was tossed about by the waves of the Genpei conflict, the battles of Date and Ashina, and the Meiji era's anti-Buddhist movement, and it once lay buried in the ground. However, now, after many years of excavation, the main hall and the middle gate have been beautifully restored in three dimensions, allowing visitors to experience the grandeur of that time.
At Tabinoito, we offer tours in an Academic style that unravel the grand historical dramas not found in textbooks, allowing you to feel the local atmosphere.
The vision of a utopia imagined by a monk named Tokuichi, the backstory of Japan's largest Buddhist debate, and why I was drawn to this place. Would you like to embark on an 'adult historical exploration' that stimulates intellectual curiosity? I look forward to solving the mysteries of history with you on-site.
