As a child, there was a 'red bridge' that always caught my attention whenever I passed by in the car. Don't you have places in your everyday scenery that linger in your memory, making you wonder, 'What is that?'
As I grew up, I happened to stop by that place during a solo drive, and there I saw many people digging into the ground, eagerly conducting excavation research. The moment I saw that scene, I remember being strongly moved, thinking, "I want to unearth the romance of history among them too!" That was the starting point for my deep engagement with the history of Aizu.
That place is the nationally designated historic site "Enichiji Ruins" located in Bandai Town.
The "Hiei Mountain of Tohoku" that existed in Aizu.
Enichiji was founded in the early Heian period (807) and was a large temple that marked history in this area for nearly a thousand years until it was abandoned in the early Meiji period. At its peak, it was recorded as a massive religious city with "3,800 sub-temples, and the roofs of halls lined up as far as the eye could see," and it once held such influence that it was called the "Hiei Mountain of Tohoku."
The founder of this great temple was a Buddhist monk named "Tokuitsu." He lived during the same period as Kukai and Saicho, but he was also a figure who engaged in a "great controversy" that shook the history of Japanese Buddhism far from the central regions (Nara and Kyoto) in Aizu.
[Buddhist Mystery] Can anyone become a Buddha? "The largest Buddhist controversy in Japan"
At that time, Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect, preached that "anyone can attain enlightenment and become a Buddha (Ichijo) equally." In contrast, Tokuitsu, who was in Aizu, directly countered this. He argued that "there are inherent differences in people's abilities and natures, and unfortunately, there are those who cannot attain enlightenment (Sanjo, Go-sei Kabetsu theory)."
The greatest confrontation in the history of Japanese Buddhism: "San'itsu Gonjitsu Controversy"
This is called the "San'itsu Gonjitsu Controversy," a historical debate that fiercely exchanged opinions in writing for five years.
In contrast to Saicho's ideal that "everyone can be saved," Tokuitsu's argument may sound a bit harsh. However, Tokuitsu was an elite who mastered the cutting-edge study of "Yogacara," which logically analyzes the workings of the human mind and consciousness. It was not just an idealistic argument; it was a rebuttal born from a serious examination of "human reality."
Saicho, who advocates ideals, and Tokuitsu, who looks at reality. If you had lived in this era, which teaching would you resonate with more deeply?
Why did Tokuitsu choose "Aizu and Bandai"?
So, why did such a genius monk choose Aizu in Tohoku instead of the glamorous stage of the capital? There are several reasons to consider.
One reason is the rich nature of Mount Bandai and the existence of spiritual mountain faith. Also, it was a transportation hub. However, more interestingly, Tokuitsu intentionally distanced himself from "central Buddhism connected to state power." He may have believed that by separating from politics and vested interests, he could build a "pure land of faith and practice" in this quiet area of Aizu.
Prayer to "Yakushi Nyorai" that supports local people
As evidence, the principal image he chose for Enichiji was not the "Amitabha Buddha for going to paradise after death," which later became popular, but rather "Yakushi Nyorai, who saves people facing illness and suffering in this world right now."
It was about empathizing with local people fighting against harsh nature and epidemics, healing the suffering in front of them. That was the kind of Buddhism Tokuitsu aimed for.
A journey to read the revival of the temple and the unknown history
Afterward, Keijitsu-ji was tossed about by the waves of the Genpei conflict, the battles of Date and Ashina, and the Meiji era's anti-Buddhist movement, and it once lay asleep in the ground. However, now, after many years of excavation, the main hall and the middle gate have been beautifully restored in three dimensions, allowing visitors to feel the grandeur of that time.
At Tabinoito, we offer tours in the Academic style that unravel these grand historical dramas not found in textbooks while feeling the local atmosphere.
The vision of an ideal world imagined by a monk named Tokuichi, the behind-the-scenes of Japan's largest Buddhist debate, and why I was drawn to this place. Would you like to embark on an intellectual journey of "historical exploration for adults" together? We look forward to solving the mysteries of history with you on-site.
【An academic journey to unearth the romance of history】
A dedicated guide will unravel grand historical dramas not found in textbooks.
We can propose a custom route tailored to your interests.
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