As a child, there was a strangely intriguing 'red bridge' that I would pass by in the car. Don't you have places in your everyday scenery that linger in your memory with the thought, 'What is that?'
As I grew up, I happened to stop by that place during a solo drive, and there I saw many people digging into the ground, eagerly conducting archaeological research. The moment I witnessed that scene, I remember being strongly moved, thinking, "I want to unearth the romance of history among them!" That was the starting point for my deep engagement with the history of Aizu.
That place is the nationally designated historic site "Enichiji Ruins" located in Bandai Town.
The "Hiei Mountain of Tohoku" that existed in Aizu.
Enichiji was founded in the early Heian period (807) and has been a major temple that has carved history in this land for nearly a thousand years until it was abandoned in the early Meiji period. At its peak, it was recorded as a massive religious city with "3,800 sub-temples, with temple roofs lined as far as the eye could see," and it once held such influence that it was called the "Hiei Mountain of Tohoku."
The founder of this great temple was a Buddhist monk named "Tokuitsu." He lived during the same era as Kukai and Saicho, but he was also a figure who engaged in a "great controversy" that shook the history of Japanese Buddhism far away from the central regions (Nara and Kyoto) in this Aizu area.
[Buddhist Mystery] Can anyone become a Buddha? "Japan's Largest Buddhist Controversy"
At that time, Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect, preached that "anyone can attain enlightenment and become a Buddha (One Vehicle)." In contrast, Tokuitsu, who was in Aizu, directly countered this. He argued that "there are inherent differences in people's abilities and natures, and unfortunately, some cannot attain enlightenment (Three Vehicles, Different Teachings)."
The Greatest Confrontation in Japanese Buddhist History: The "San'itsu Gonjitsu Controversy"
This is called the "San'itsu Gonjitsu Controversy" and was a historical debate that fiercely exchanged opinions in writing for five years.
In response to Saicho's ideal of "everyone being saved," Tokuitsu's claims may sound a bit harsh. However, Tokuitsu was an elite who mastered the cutting-edge study of "Yogacara," which logically analyzes the workings of the human mind and consciousness. It was not just an idealistic argument; it was a rebuttal born from a serious examination of "human reality."
Saicho, who advocates ideals, and Tokuitsu, who faces reality. If you lived in this era, which teaching would you resonate with more deeply?
Why did Tokuitsu choose "Aizu and Bandai"?
So, why did such a genius monk choose Aizu in Tohoku instead of the glamorous stage of the capital? There are several reasons to consider.
One reason is the presence of the rich nature of Mount Bandai and the belief in sacred mountains. Additionally, it was a transportation hub. However, what is even more interesting is that Tokuitsu intentionally distanced himself from the "central Buddhism connected to state power." He believed that by separating from politics and vested interests, he could build a "pure land of faith and practice" in this quiet Aizu region.
Prayers to "Yakushi Nyorai" that resonate with local people
As evidence of this, the principal image he chose for Enichiji was not the "Amitabha Buddha" that would later become popular for going to paradise after death, but rather the "Yakushi Nyorai" who saves people facing illness and suffering in this world.
He stood by the local people fighting against harsh nature and epidemics, healing the suffering before them. That was the form of Buddhism that Tokuitsu aimed for.
A journey to read the unknown history and revive the sacred site
Afterwards, Keijitsu-ji was tossed about by the waves of the Genpei conflict, the battles of Date and Ashina, and the Meiji era's anti-Buddhist movement, and it once lay asleep in the ground. However, now, after many years of excavation, the main hall and the middle gate have been beautifully restored in three dimensions, allowing visitors to feel the grandeur of that time.
At Tabinoito, we offer tours in an Academic style that unravel these grand historical dramas not found in textbooks while experiencing the local atmosphere.
The vision of an ideal world imagined by a monk named Tokui, the background of Japan's largest Buddhist debate, and why I am drawn to this place. Would you like to embark on an "adult historical exploration" that stimulates intellectual curiosity? We look forward to unraveling the mysteries of history with you on-site.
[An academic journey that excavates the romance of history]
A dedicated guide will unravel the grand historical dramas not found in textbooks.
We can propose a custom route tailored to your interests.
Please feel free to consult us via LINE first.
