Have you ever had an experience where you unexpectedly touched upon the depths of history at a place you visited on a whim?
For me, that was my encounter with 'Ganjouji Temple' in Kitakata City. One New Year's, with a somewhat casual feeling of 'because we can visit our family's guardian deities (Seishi Bodhisattva and Amida Buddha) all at once,' my family and I set out on a drive to Aizu under the wide blue sky. However, what awaited us there was the 'weight of history' and the 'memories of people's prayers' that far exceeded our imagination.
This time, I will introduce a glimpse of the profound Buddhist culture that lives on in Aizu and Kitakata, which goes beyond just visiting tourist spots.
The broken halo quietly speaks of the villagers' memories.
As I stepped into the hall guided by the chief priest, I was greeted by the magnificent golden statue of Amida Nyorai (Aizu Buddha), standing over 2.4 meters tall.
While being overwhelmed by its splendid appearance, I suddenly noticed that some of the small thousand Buddha statues lined up behind the Buddha, known as the 'Funagata halo,' were missing pieces. 'Why are they broken?' What do you think? Is it due to deterioration over the long years? Or perhaps...?
When I asked out of curiosity, the chief priest quietly taught me this.
The reason the halo is broken, as told by the chief priest.
'During the Russo-Japanese War and World War I, the villagers who were sent off to battle took one statue each as a 'charm' hidden in their pockets.'
For every Buddha that did not return, there is a life that could not come back. When I learned this fact, my perspective shifted from viewing it as just a 'beautiful statue' to recognizing it as 'the history of people with blood and flesh.' If you were to stand before this halo, what thoughts would you have?
[Artistic Perspective] A rare 'seiza' Bodhisattva in the Tohoku region.
Even more interesting is the appearance of the 'Seishi Bodhisattva' and 'Kannon Bodhisattva' surrounding the central Amida Nyorai.
Typically, the Bodhisattvas flanking the Amida Triad are often depicted as 'standing,' but the Bodhisattvas at Ganjoji are in the rare 'seiza' (traditional sitting) posture. This is the same format as the national treasure of the Raigo Triad at Sanzenin in Ohara, Kyoto, and is extremely rare in the Tohoku region.
Why was the cutting-edge Buddhist art of the capital brought to the distant land of Michinoku? Its majestic presence suggests that the artisans from the capital, following the traditions of Unkei and Kaikei, may have been involved.
The dramatic religious saga behind the splendid statue: 'The Karo Crisis.'
The background of this magnificent statue remaining in this land is related to the intense religious conflicts that occurred during the Kamakura period.
It was the year 1227. The teachings of the founder of the Jodo sect, Honen Shonin (that anyone can be saved by chanting the Nembutsu), spread explosively among the people. However, intense conflicts arose with the old Buddhist forces (such as Hieizan Enryakuji) who were not pleased with this. This is known as the 'Karo Crisis.'
The Trials of Karo and the Beginning of Ganjoji
- Ryukan, a high disciple of Honen, defeated his opponent in a debate but was ultimately exiled to Oshu, where he spent the rest of his life.
- To enshrine the remains of Ryukan, his disciple Jitsujo established what is now known as the beginning of Ganjoji.
Afterward, the temple fell into disrepair, but during the Edo period, it was magnificently restored under the protection of the Aizu lord, Masayuki Hoshina. The impressive mountain gate (established in 1697) and the beautiful carvings seen there are remnants of the region's history and the lord's aspirations.
An 'Academic' Journey to Satisfy Intellectual Curiosity
How was it? Behind each statue and temple lies artistic mysteries, heartfelt prayers from people, and historical dramas that could shake the nation.
At 'Tabinoito', we offer a tour in the [Academic Style] that fully utilizes the guide's knowledge for customers who wish to deeply understand the historical background and Buddhist culture.
If you have a curiosity like, 'I want to know more about this history' or 'I want to appreciate the statues from my own perspective', why not embark on a journey with us to unravel the history of Aizu? We will provide a quality experience tailored to the themes you are most interested in.
