Have you ever had an experience where you unexpectedly touched the depths of history at a place you visited on a whim?
For me, my encounter with Ganjouji Temple in Kitakata City was just that. One New Year's, with a somewhat casual feeling of 'because we can visit our family's protective deities (Seishi Bodhisattva and Amida Buddha) all at once,' we set out for a drive to Aizu under the wide blue sky. However, what awaited us there was the 'weight of history' and 'the memories of people's prayers' far beyond our imagination.
This time, we will introduce a glimpse of the profound Buddhist culture that thrives in Aizu and Kitakata, which goes beyond just visiting sightseeing spots.
The missing halo quietly tells the memories of the villagers.
As I stepped into the hall guided by the chief priest, I was greeted by the magnificent golden statue of Amida Nyorai (Aizu Great Buddha), standing over 2.4 meters tall.
While I was overwhelmed by its splendid appearance, I suddenly noticed that some of the small thousand Buddhas lined up behind the statue, known as the "Funagatakohaï", were missing pieces. "Why are they missing?" What do you think?
When I asked out of curiosity, the chief priest quietly explained.
The reason for the missing halo, as told by the chief priest
"During the Russo-Japanese War and World War I, villagers who went to war took one of these as a 'charm' in their pockets."
For every Buddha that did not return, there is a life that could not come back. When I learned this fact, my perspective shifted from merely seeing it as a 'beautiful statue' to recognizing it as a 'history of living people.' If you were to stand before this halo, what thoughts would you have?
[Artistic Perspective] A rare 'seiza' bodhisattva in the Tohoku region.
Even more interesting is the appearance of the "Seishi Bodhisattva" and "Kannon Bodhisattva" surrounding the central Amida Nyorai.
Typically, the bodhisattvas flanking the Amida Triad are often depicted as 'standing,' but the bodhisattvas at Ganjoji Temple are depicted in the rare 'seiza' (traditional sitting) posture. This is the same style as the national treasure of the Raigo Triad at Sanzenin in Ohara, Kyoto, and is extremely rare in the Tohoku region.
Why was the cutting-edge Buddhist art from the capital brought to the distant land of Michinoku? Its majestic presence suggests that the artisans from the capital, following the traditions of Unkei and Kaikei, may have been involved.
The dramatic religious saga behind the splendid statue: the 'Karoku no Hōnan.'
The background of this wonderful statue remaining in this area is related to the fierce religious conflicts that occurred during the Kamakura period.
In the year 1227, the teachings of Hōnen Shōnin, the founder of the Jōdo sect (that anyone can be saved by chanting the nembutsu), spread explosively among the people. However, intense conflicts arose with the old Buddhist forces (such as Hieizan Enryakuji) who did not take kindly to this. This is known as the 'Karoku no Hōnan.'
The Trials of Karoku and the Beginning of Ganjoji
- Ryukan, a disciple of Honen, was exiled to Oshu after defeating his opponent in a debate, and he spent the rest of his life in this place.
- To enshrine the remains of Ryukan, his disciple Jitsujo established this the beginning of Ganjoji.
Later, the temple fell into disrepair, but during the Edo period, it was beautifully restored under the protection of the Aizu domain lord, Masayuki Hoshina. The impressive mountain gate (established in 1697) and the magnificent carvings seen there are remnants of the region's history and the lord's sentiments.
A journey to satisfy your intellectual curiosity: an 'Academic' trip
How was it? Behind each statue and temple lies artistic mysteries, heartfelt prayers of the people, and historical dramas that could shake the nation.
At Tabinoito, we offer Academic Style tours that fully utilize the knowledge of our guides for customers who wish to deeply understand the historical background and Buddhist culture.
If you have an intellectual curiosity like 'I want to know more about this history' or 'I want to appreciate the statues from my own perspective', why not embark on a journey with us to unravel the history of Aizu? We will provide a quality experience tailored to the themes you are most interested in.
