There is a mysterious legend that has been etched in my heart since I visited on a school trip in the third grade.
"Once, when the giant turtle statue at this shrine was facing south, it would sneak off to play at Lake Inawashiro every night, causing trouble. So, when I made it face north (the current direction), it finally settled down."
The "Haniyasu Shrine" in Inawashiro Town. My own name contains the same character "Masaru" as the deity enshrined here, making it a special place that has always watched over me during significant moments in life, such as Shichi-Go-San and the New Year's visit.
This time, I will guide you through the grand and slightly thrilling history surrounding the Haniyasu Shrine, which holds personal significance for me, and its connection to the first lord of the Aizu domain, "Masanori Hoshina."
Why did it become a "shrine" instead of a "Buddhist" one? The biggest taboo of Edo.
Masanori Hoshina was the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the half-brother of the third shogun, Iemitsu. He was entrusted with the words, "Rely on the Tokugawa family," from Iemitsu, and as an advisor to the fourth shogun, he laid the foundation of the Edo shogunate, truly a "super elite and the greatest power."
This shrine, Haniyasu, is where such a great figure rests. In the precincts stands the largest turtle pedestal monument in Japan, reaching a height of 7.3 meters.
However, here arises a "certain mystery" that history enthusiasts will find intriguing.
At that time, the Edo shogunate strictly mandated that "funerals and graves must be conducted in the Buddhist style (temples)." Furthermore, for a daimyo to be enshrined as a "god" after death was considered a major taboo, as it was seen as attempting to stand alongside Tokugawa Ieyasu, who became the "Toshogu God," and was absolutely forbidden.
So why was Masanori Hoshina enshrined as a "shrine" at the foot of Mineyama, breaking the shogunate's rules? What do you think?
Loyalty and Rampage? The Passionate Drama of the Retainers
In fact, there was a heated and intense drama between the second lord, who was concerned about the shogunate's watchful eyes, and the retainers from the homeland who were determined to "absolutely fulfill the will of the great first lord!" (and went a bit overboard).
As a result, the chief retainer, who was responsible for the funeral, took the blame by saying, "I did it on my own," in an acrobatic manner, thus protecting this magnificent shrine.
Connected to the present! The "Incredible Achievements" of the Great Lord Masanori Hoshina
Just how remarkable a leader was Masanori Hoshina, whom the retainers admired so much? Looking at his policies, they can be seen as pioneering what we now call "modern welfare and infrastructure."
- The World's First Pension System? "Yoro Support": Providing 5 go of brown rice per day to elderly people over 90 years old.
- Preparation for Famine: "Shakuraku System": A safety net that stocks rice during normal times and lends it to poor farmers during famines.
- Infrastructure development of Edo: The excavation of the "Tamagawa Josui," the drinking water for the citizens of Edo.
- Reduction of waste: When Edo Castle burned down in the Great Fire of Meireki, it was argued that "the main keep only serves to look far away. It is unnecessary for the castle's defense, so that money should be redirected to the reconstruction of Edo." As a result, the reconstruction of the main keep was abandoned.
A rational politics that thoroughly prioritized the lives of the "people (commoners)." If Lord Masayuki were a modern politician, he would undoubtedly have garnered immense support.
Ley lines connecting Nikko Toshogu and the turtles facing north
The charm of Tsuchizukijinja is not just its history. Geographically, it is said that if you draw a line connecting "Nikko Toshogu," where Tokugawa Ieyasu rests, and this "Tsuchizukijinja" on a map, a beautiful straight "ley line" emerges. It truly plays a role as a guardian of Aizu's critical point.
Furthermore, when you visit the burial site of the successive lords in Aizuwakamatsu City (Matsudaira Family Inner Temple), you will notice another moving fact.
Turtles that continue to gaze through time
The massive turtle monuments from the second lord onwards. All their heads are intently gazing at this Tsuchizukijinja in Inawashiro (to the north), where the first lord, Masayuki, rests.
The unwavering spirituality of Aizu, which continues to honor the first lord across time, is reflected in the direction of these stones.
In spring, the rare "Takatoko Higanzakura" transplanted from Takato Han in Nagano Prefecture blooms beautifully, and in autumn, the "Irohamomiji" that came from Kyoto spreads a bright red carpet.
A journey to feel the "heat" of history
How was it? It is not just an old shrine; it is filled with the tense relationship with the shogunate, the love of a wise ruler for the people, and the incredible loyalty of the retainers and descendants.
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in the Academic Style that guide you through the "human dramas" behind such history, with unique perspectives and deep knowledge from our guides.
"I want to experience the moment when the dots of history connect and become a line" and "I want to touch the passionate human dramas not found in textbooks"
If you feel this way, why not join us for a fieldwork tour around Tsuchizukijinja, a pride of Aizu, and the mausoleums of the successive lords? We sincerely await your visit.
[The ultimate academic tour that connects the dots of history]
A journey that goes beyond a stamp rally, feeling the breath of the people of that time.
Our dedicated guide will explain the historical mysteries spread throughout Aizu.
First, feel free to consult us via LINE.
