There is a mysterious legend that has been etched in my heart since I visited on a school trip in the third grade.
"Once, when the giant turtle statue at this shrine was facing south, it would sneak off to play at Lake Inawashiro every night, causing trouble. So, when I made it face north (the current direction), it finally settled down."
The "Hani-tsu Shrine" in Inawashiro Town. My own name contains the same character "Masaru" as the deity enshrined here, making it a special place that has always watched over me during significant life events like Shichi-Go-San and New Year's visits.
This time, I will guide you through the grand and slightly thrilling history behind the Hani-tsu Shrine, which holds a deep personal connection for me, and its association with the first lord of the Aizu domain, "Masanori Hoshina."
Why did it become a "shrine" instead of a "Buddhist temple"? The greatest taboo of Edo.
Masanori Hoshina was the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the half-brother of the third shogun, Iemitsu. He was entrusted with the significant responsibility of "taking care of the Tokugawa family" in Iemitsu's will, and he built the foundation of the Edo shogunate as an advisor to the fourth shogun, truly a "super elite and the best power player."
This Hani-tsu Shrine is where such a great figure rests. In the precincts stands the largest "Kifuhihi (a giant stone monument on a turtle pedestal)" in Japan, reaching a height of 7.3 meters.
However, here arises a certain mystery that history enthusiasts might find startling.
At that time, the Edo shogunate strictly mandated that "funerals and graves must be conducted in the Buddhist format (temples)." Furthermore, for a daimyo to be enshrined as a "god" after death was considered a major taboo, seen as attempting to stand alongside "Tokugawa Ieyasu, who became the deity Tōshō Daigongen," and was absolutely forbidden.
So why was Masanori enshrined as a "shrine" at the foot of Mineyama, breaking the shogunate's rules? What do you think?
Loyalty and Rampage? The Passionate Drama of the Retainers
In fact, there was a heated and intense drama between the second lord, who was concerned about the shogunate's scrutiny, and the local retainers who were determined to fulfill the will of their "great first lord" at all costs (or so they thought).
As a result, the chief retainer, who was responsible for the funeral, took the blame by saying, "I did it on my own," in an acrobatic manner, ensuring the preservation of this magnificent shrine.
Connecting to the Present! The "Incredible Achievements" of the Great Lord Masanori Hoshina
Just how amazing a leader was Masanori, whom the retainers admired so much? Looking at his policies, they can be seen as precursors to "modern welfare and infrastructure."
- The World's First Pension System? "Yōrō Support": Providing 5 go of brown rice per day to the elderly over 90 years old.
- Preparation for Famine: "Shakuraku System": A safety net that stockpiles rice in normal times and lends it to poor farmers during famines.
- Infrastructure Development in Edo: The excavation of the "Tamagawa Josui," the drinking water source for the citizens of Edo.
- Reduction of Waste: When Edo Castle burned down in the Great Fire of Meireki, it was argued that "the main keep is merely for distant viewing. It is unnecessary for the castle's defense, so that money should be redirected to the reconstruction of Edo," leading to the cancellation of the keep's reconstruction.
A rational politics that thoroughly prioritizes the lives of the "people (commoners)." If Lord Masayuki were a modern politician, he would surely have garnered immense support.
Ley lines connecting Nikko Toshogu and the turtles facing north
The charm of Tsuchizujinja is not just in its history. Geographically, it is said that if you draw a line on the map connecting "Nikko Toshogu," where Tokugawa Ieyasu rests, and this "Tsuchizujinja," a beautiful straight "ley line" can be drawn. It indeed plays a role as a guardian against evil for Aizu.
Furthermore, when you visit the burial site of the successive lords in Aizuwakamatsu City (the Matsudaira Clan's Inner Mausoleum), you will notice another moving fact.
Turtles that continue to gaze through time
The massive turtle monuments from the second lord onward. Their heads all gaze intently at this Tsuchizujinja in Inawashiro (to the north), where the first lord, Masayuki, rests.
The unwavering spirituality of Aizu, which continues to honor the first lord across time, is reflected in the direction of these stones.
In spring, the rare "Takatoko Higanzakura" transplanted from Takato Han in Nagano Prefecture blooms beautifully, and in autumn, the "Iroha Momiji" that came from Kyoto spreads a bright red carpet.
A journey to feel the "heat" of history
What did you think? It is not just an old shrine; it is filled with the tense relationship with the shogunate, the love of a wise ruler who cares for the people, and the incredible loyalty of the retainers and descendants.
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in the Academic Style that guide you through the "human dramas" behind such history, with a unique perspective and deep knowledge.
"I want to experience the moment when the points of history connect and become a line." "I want to touch the passionate human dramas that are not found in textbooks."
If you feel this way, why not join us for a fieldwork tour around Tsuchizujinja, a pride of Aizu, and the mausoleums of the successive lords? We sincerely look forward to your visit.
[The Ultimate Academic Tour Connecting the Points of History]
A journey that goes beyond a stamp rally, feeling the breath of the people of that time.
Your dedicated guide will explain the historical mysteries spread throughout Aizu.
Feel free to consult us via LINE first.
