There is a mysterious legend that has been etched in my heart since I visited on a school trip in the third grade.
'Long ago, when the giant turtle statue at this shrine was facing south, it would sneak off to play at Lake Inawashiro every night, causing trouble. So, when I turned it to face north (the current direction), it finally settled down.'
The "Hani-tsu Shrine" located in Inawashiro Town. My own name contains the same character "Masaru" as the deity enshrined in this shrine, making it a special place that has always watched over me during significant life events like Shichi-Go-San and New Year's visits.
This time, I will guide you through the grand and somewhat thrilling history surrounding the Hani-tsu Shrine, which holds personal significance for me, and the first lord of the Aizu domain, "Masanori Hoshina".
Why did it become a "shrine" instead of a "Buddhist" one? The greatest taboo of Edo.
Masanori Hoshina was a grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the half-brother of the third shogun, Iemitsu. He was entrusted with the heavy responsibility of "looking after the Tokugawa family" in Iemitsu's will and played a crucial role in establishing the foundation of the Edo shogunate as an assistant to the fourth shogun, truly a "super elite and the greatest power player".
This Hani-tsu Shrine is where such a great figure rests. Within the shrine grounds stands Japan's largest "Kifuhihi (a giant stone monument on a turtle pedestal)" towering at 7.3 meters.
However, here arises a "certain mystery" that history enthusiasts will find startling.
At that time, the Edo shogunate strictly mandated that "funerals and graves must be conducted in the Buddhist style (temples)". Furthermore, for a daimyo to be enshrined as a "god" after death was considered a major taboo, as it was seen as attempting to stand alongside "Tokugawa Ieyasu, who became the Tōshō Daigongen (deity)".
So why was Masanori enshrined as a "shrine" at the foot of Mineyama, breaking the shogunate's rules? What do you think?
Loyalty and Rampage? The Passionate Drama of the Retainers
In fact, there was a passionate and intense drama here between the second lord, who was concerned about the shogunate's scrutiny, and the retainers from the homeland who were determined to fulfill the wishes of their "great first lord" at all costs (?). As a result, the chief retainer, who was responsible for the funeral, took the blame by saying, "I did it on my own" (defecting), thus protecting this magnificent shrine.
Connected to the present! The "Incredible Achievements" of the Great Lord Masanori Hoshina
Just how remarkable a leader was Masanori, whom the retainers admired to such an extent? Looking at his policies, they can be seen as precursors to "modern welfare and infrastructure".
- The World's First Pension System? "Yōrō Support": Providing 5 go of brown rice per day to the elderly over 90 years old.
- Preparation for Famine: "Shakurazukuri System": A safety net that involved stockpiling rice during normal times and lending it to poor farmers during famines.
- Infrastructure Development in Edo: The excavation of the "Tamagawa Waterway", which served as drinking water for the citizens of Edo.
- Reduction of waste: When Edo Castle burned down in the Great Fire of Meireki, it was argued that "the main keep is just for looking far away. It is unnecessary for the castle's defense, so that money should be redirected to the reconstruction of Edo." The reconstruction of the main keep was abandoned.
A rational politics that thoroughly prioritizes the lives of the "people (commoners)". If Lord Masayuki were a modern politician, he would undoubtedly have garnered immense support.
Ley lines connecting Nikko Toshogu Shrine and the turtles facing north
The charm of Tsuchizumi Shrine is not just its history. Geographically, it is said that if you draw a line connecting the "Nikko Toshogu Shrine," where Tokugawa Ieyasu rests, and this "Tsuchizumi Shrine" on a map, a beautiful straight "ley line" can be drawn. It truly plays a role as a guardian against evil for Aizu.
Furthermore, when you visit the burial site of the successive lords in Aizuwakamatsu City (Matsudaira Family Inner Temple), you will notice another moving fact.
In spring, the rare "Takatoko Higan Cherry Blossom" transplanted from Takato Domain in Nagano Prefecture blooms delicately, and in autumn, the "Iroha Maple" that came from Kyoto spreads a bright red carpet.
A journey to feel the "heat" of history
How was it? It is not just an old shrine; it contains the tense relationship with the shogunate, the love of a wise ruler for the people, and the immense loyalty of vassals and descendants.
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in the 【Academic Style】 that guide you through the "human dramas" behind such history, with the unique perspective and deep knowledge of our guides.
If you want to experience the moment when "the points of history connect and become a line" and touch on the passionate human dramas not found in textbooks,
why not join us for a fieldwork tour of Tsuchizumi Shrine, a pride of Aizu, and the burial sites of the successive lords? We sincerely look forward to your visit.
