[Aizu Historical Exploration] A Good Death Without Prolonged Suffering? The Pilgrimage Drive of 'Aizu Korori Three Kannon'


皆さんは、「人生の最期をどのように迎えたいか」と考えたことはありますか?「できる限り健康で長生きし、最後は家族に迷惑をかけず、苦しまずに『ころり』と旅立ちたい」

Have you ever thought about how you want to face the end of your life?

"I want to live as healthily and long as possible, and in the end, I wish to depart without causing trouble to my family and without suffering, just like 'korori'" — this ultimate wish has remained unchanged for us living in modern times, as well as for people from hundreds of years ago.

In the Aizu region, there is a belief called "Aizu Korori San Kannon" that fulfills this wish and has been deeply rooted for a long time.

By visiting the three temples: Nakata Kannon (Aizumisato Town), Tachiki Kannon (Aizubakuhatsu Town), and Toroi Kannon (Nishi-Aizu Town), and praying while clinging to the "hugging pillar," it is said that one can eliminate the three poisons (greed, anger, and ignorance) and be promised a peaceful rebirth in paradise.

This time, we will guide you on a pilgrimage drive course for adults, where you can reflect on your own "life and death" while enjoying the mysteries of history and beautiful architecture.

1. A Mother's Deep Love and a Sad Legend【Nakata Kannon (Koanji)】

First, let's start at "Nakata Kannon" in Aizumisato Town, which is close to Aizuwakamatsu.

This temple is known for the mother of the world-renowned bacteriologist, Hideyo Noguchi, named Shika, who prayed every month without fail for her son's burn treatment and success in life through "Okomori (monthly visits)."

A Parental Love That Crosses Time

The principal image, "Bronze Eleven-faced Kannon (National Important Cultural Property)," holds a sad legend. During the Kamakura period, a man named Egawa Chōja cast this life-sized Kannon statue in memory of his only daughter, Tokihime, who passed away at the young age of 17.
It is a very warm and slightly sad place where the mother's wish for her son's success and the father's remembrance of his deceased daughter intersect across time, embodying the "deep love of parents."

Let’s firmly hug the "hugging pillar" inside the hall and offer our first prayer.

2. A Giant Kannon Still Rooted!【Tachiki Kannon (Eiryūji)】

Next, we will head to "Tachiki Kannon" in Aizubakuhatsu Town, about 20 to 30 minutes by car from Nakata Kannon.

The biggest highlight here is undoubtedly the majestic main hall with a thatched roof (Important Cultural Property) and the enormous "Eleven-faced Thousand-armed Kannon statue" that stands about 8.5 meters tall inside.

Remarkably, this Kannon statue is said to have been carved from a large zelkova tree while it was still rooted (standing tree Buddha), and it is said that the roots still extend down to the floor.
Looking up at its overwhelming scale can make your neck hurt, and it feels as if it is directly absorbing the earth's energy with its life force.

There is also a splendid "hugging pillar" here. While being enveloped by the compassion of the giant Kannon, let’s snuggle up to the pillar and wish, "Please guide me without long suffering, just like korori."

3. The Mystery of Left Jingo's "Hidden Carvings"【Torioi Kannon (Nohōji)】

Finally, after about an hour by car, we head to "Torioi Kannon" in Nishi-Aizu Town, surrounded by nature. This is one of the leading Kannon sacred sites opened by the Bodhisattva Tokui, who established the Keijiji Temple in Bandai Town as "the Pure Land of Aizu to the West."

The structure of the hall here is very academic and features a rare one-way design where visitors enter from the east entrance and exit through the west entrance (toward the Pure Land of the West) without returning. The structure of the building itself represents "the journey from this life to the next."

And for architecture fans, a must-see is the "Hidden Three Monkeys" said to be carved by the legendary Edo period sculptor, Left Jingo.

Can it not be found by those with a troubled heart?

While the "See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil" monkeys of Nikko Toshogu are famous, the three monkeys here represent "the monkey hidden from difficulties," "the monkey that escapes difficulties," and "the monkey that lives in comfort."
Interestingly, the third monkey is said to be hidden and carved to resemble a peony bud. It is also said that "those with a troubled heart cannot find it," and if you manage to discover it, good fortune will come as the bud blooms. Please try to find it with your own eyes.

A pilgrimage journey to "live well"

How was it?

When you hear the name "Korori Three Kannon," you might think it sounds a bit ominous. However, contemplating death (memento mori) is the best academic experience to seriously reflect on "how to live in the present."

At "Tabinoito," we offer a tour in the Academic style that carefully unravels the historical background and Buddhist views on life and death, along with the guide's rich knowledge.

How about spending a quiet time facing your own heart while driving through the beautiful scenery of Aizu with a goshuin book in hand? The travel time between each temple (approximately 1.5 to 2 hours in total) will surely be a blissful moment filled with historical talks with the guide.

[Aizu Korori Three Kannon Pilgrimage Data]

* Pilgrimage by car is recommended. Taking a leisurely two-day trip is also a wonderful experience.

Temple Name (Location) Admission Fee / Opening Hours, etc. Access and sightseeing points
Nakata Kannon (Kōan-ji)
Aizu Misato Town
Admission 400 yen
*Individual visits are only available on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 10 AM (reservation required the day before)
A temple associated with Shika, the mother of Hideyo Noguchi. A bronze eleven-faced Kannon with a sad legend.
Tachiki Kannon (Eiryū-ji)
Aizu Sakashita Town
Admission 300 yen
*Always open for worship
An overwhelming presence of the giant thousand-armed Kannon, carved while still rooted, standing 8.5m tall!
Torioi Kannon (Nohō-ji)
Nishi Aizu Town
Free admission
*Dharma talks and guidance require reservation
Searching for Left Jingo's 'Hidden Three Monkeys' and the architectural structure of 'Western Pure Land' that runs from east to west.

[The ultimate academic tour connecting points of history]

A journey that goes beyond a stamp rally, feeling the breath of people from that time.
A dedicated guide will explain the mysteries of history spread throughout Aizu.
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