Suzurin, Aizumisato Town, Onuma District, Fukushima Prefecture. Quietly nestled among the fields in the southwest of the Aizu Basin, the temple stands.
In the precincts, a rare three-story pagoda in Tohoku quietly stands tall, and the main hall and Kannon hall retain their ancient appearance.
This is Hōyō-ji. It is a Tendai sect temple, one of the oldest in Aizu, founded in the 4th year of Yōrō (720 AD).
However, the true story of Hōyō-ji lies in a place that cannot be imagined from this quiet present precinct. Once, this was the largest base for the faith of the sacred peak, Mount Iide, stretching south from Aizu.
The "Betto-ji" that oversaw Mount Iide
Mount Iide, standing at an elevation of 2,105 meters at the border of Fukushima, Niigata, and Yamagata, has long been regarded as "the mountain where souls return after death" and was one of the centers of mountain faith in Tohoku.
Hōyō-ji has lived through a long era as the "Betto-ji" that oversees this faith in Mount Iide—a temple that serves as the headquarters of faith.
At its peak, it is said that 33 monk lodges lined the precincts. Many ascetics and worshippers visited here, donned their ceremonial attire, offered prayers, and then headed to the mountain.
(The position of Betto later moved to Renge-ji in the 8th year of Tenbun (1539). However, even during its time as Betto, Hōyō-ji was the center of faith in this area for over 800 years.)
Boys at the age of 13 take on life-threatening challenges
There is another aspect of the ascetic practices on Mount Iide that must not be forgotten.
In the villages of Aizu, there has long been a rite of passage where boys who turn 13 are recognized as "full-fledged men" by climbing Mount Iide.
However, this is by no means a light "ritual." Children climb a mountain over 2,000 meters high with the equipment of that time. Many boys lost their lives.
Before the ascent, the boys underwent strict training for 3 to 7 days at the Kannon hall of Hōyō-ji.
- Kessai (purification) — to cleanse oneself and abstain from meat and foul substances
- Mizugori (water purification) — to bathe in cold water and dispel impurities
- Inscription on the pillar - Leave your name and a prayer for a "safe return" on the pillar of the Kannon Hall.
Thus, the boys who had prepared their minds and bodies headed towards the mountains.
The determination of the boys remains on the pillar.
On the pillar of the Kannon Hall, there are still traces of inscriptions left by the boys before their ascent.
Names, ages, dates, and short words praying for safety. These are the handwritten notes of boys from over 100, 200 years ago.
"I will endure this training" "I will return safely"
In every character they wrote, the child's fears, determination, and thoughts for their family are evident. Perhaps there were boys who left only their inscriptions without returning from the mountains.
Walking after knowing, Hōyō-ji
Now, if you visit Hōyō-ji, it appears to be a tranquil temple set in a quiet rural area. The tourist guidebooks simply mention it as "one of the Five Cherry Blossoms of Aizu - Tora-no-O Sakura" and "Important Cultural Property of the Prefecture - Three-Story Pagoda."
When we guide visitors at Hōyō-ji, we ask them to approach the pillar of the Kannon Hall first and take a closer look. The moment they whisper, "Oh, I can see the characters", their expressions change. The experience of visiting the main hall from there becomes entirely different.
When you walk knowing that this was once a grand temple with 33 monk quarters and a place where 13-year-old boys underwent life-threatening training every summer, a completely different landscape emerges.
If you stop in front of the Kannon Hall, the image of boys bathing in cold water suddenly overlaps with the precincts. Looking up at the pillar, the faint traces of inscriptions seem to speak across time.
I think that's what travel is ultimately about. It's not about where you travel, but how much you know and walk.
If you are visiting Hōyō-ji
Hōyō-ji is located in Suzuribayashi, Aizumisato Town, Ōnuma District, Fukushima Prefecture. It is about a 30-minute drive from Aizuwakamatsu City. It is situated in the rural area heading south from Aizuwakamatsu and Tsuruga Castle.
Three-Story Pagoda and Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom
The three-story pagoda in the precincts is designated as an important cultural property of Fukushima Prefecture (not nationally designated. The three-story pagoda in the snow country is rare and tells the story of the weight of this temple's history). In spring, one of the Aizu Five Cherry Blossoms, the "Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom," blooms in the precincts, and the combination of cherry blossoms and the three-story pagoda creates one of the finest spring scenes in Aizu.
Kannon Hall and the Inscribed Pillars
The inscriptions left by boys on the pillars of Kannon Hall have faded over time to the point that they can easily be overlooked if you're not careful. When you visit, be sure to get close to the pillars and look for those traces.
Places to Visit Together
- Isasumi Shrine (Aizumisato Town) ── An ancient shrine that is the main shrine of Aizu. A core of Aizu faith that you would want to visit along with Hōyō-ji.
- Heijiji Ruins (Bandai Town) ── One of the oldest temples in Tohoku, founded by the Bodhisattva Tokui in the early Heian period. A day to trace the Buddhist history of Aizu.
- Aizuwakamatsu - Tsuruga Castle ── About a 30-minute drive from Hōyō-ji.
A journey to encounter stories, would you like to join?
At Tabinoito, guide Catherine, who has lived in Urabandai and Aizu for half a century, shares stories of the land that are not found in guidebooks, providing exclusive tours for one group per day.
For those who want to trace the stories of Hōyō-ji and Iide Mountain, those who wish to pilgrimage to ancient temples in Aizu, or those who want to see the Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom in the cherry blossom season, we will tour at your pace for the day. You can leave all long-distance driving and arrangements to us.
"I want to know history more deeply" or "I want to leisurely explore with my spouse" ── Whatever your request, feel free to ask. Just consulting is also OK, and we will not pressure you with persistent solicitations.
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Related Articles:
The Village Sunken Beneath the Lake ── Memories of Hibara Village Lost in the 1888 Eruption of Mount Bandai
Tokuichi Bosatsu and Eijiji ── Why Did He Abandon the Capital to Come to Aizu?
Reference Materials
- Houyouji (Aizumisato Town Tourism Navi 'Misatono')
- Houyouji (Wikipedia)
- Iide Mountain (Wikipedia)
- On-site coverage (Visit and interviews by Tabinoito guide, Catherine)
Author of this article
Catherine ── A guide who has lived in Fukushima's Urabandai and Aizu for half a century. Founder of the private tour company 'Tabinoito'. With over 30 years of guiding experience, she is deeply familiar with the local nature, history, and cultural beliefs. Guiding one group per day, she shares stories of the land not found in guidebooks while showing you around Urabandai and Aizu.
