Suzuririn, Aizumisato Town, Onuma District, Fukushima Prefecture. Quietly nestled among the fields in the southwest of the Aizu Basin, the temple stands.
In the precincts, a rare three-story pagoda in Tohoku stands quietly, and the main hall and Kannon hall retain their old appearance.
This is Hōyō-ji. It is a Tendai sect temple, one of the oldest in Aizu, founded in the 4th year of Yōrō (720 AD).
However, the true story of Hōyō-ji lies beyond what can be imagined from this quiet present precinct. Once, this was the largest base for the faith of the sacred peak, Mount Iide, stretching south from Aizu.
The "Betto-ji" that governed Mount Iide
Mount Iide, standing at an elevation of 2,105 meters, towers over the borders of Fukushima, Niigata, and Yamagata. It has long been regarded as "the mountain where souls return after death" and was one of the centers of mountain faith in Tohoku.
Hōyō-ji has lived through a long era as the "Betto-ji" that governs the faith of Mount Iide—a temple akin to the headquarters of faith.
At its peak, it is said that 33 monk lodges lined the precincts. Many ascetics and worshippers visited here, donned their ceremonial attire, offered prayers, and then headed towards the mountain.
(The position of Betto later moved to Renge-ji in the 8th year of Tenbun (1539). However, even during its time as Betto, Hōyō-ji was the center of faith in this area for over 800 years.)
Boys at the age of 13 take on the challenge with their lives on the line
There is another aspect of the ascetic practices on Mount Iide that must not be forgotten.
In the villages of Aizu, there has long been a rite of passage where boys who turn 13 are recognized as "full-fledged men" by climbing Mount Iide.
However, this is by no means a light "ritual." Children climb a mountain over 2,000 meters high with the equipment of that time. Many boys lost their lives.
Before the ascent, the boys would seclude themselves in the Kannon hall of Hōyō-ji and undergo rigorous training for 3 to 7 days.
- Purification (Kessai) — to cleanse oneself and abstain from meat and foul substances
- Water purification (Mizugori) — to bathe in cold water and dispel impurities
- Inscription on the pillar──Leaving one's name and a prayer for a "safe return" on the pillar of the Kannon Hall
Thus, the boys who had prepared their minds and bodies headed towards the mountains.
The determination of the boys remains on the pillar
On the pillar of the Kannon Hall, there are still traces of inscriptions left by the boys before their ascent that remain faintly visible.
Names, ages, dates, and short words praying for safety. These are the handwritten notes of boys from 100, 200 years, or even longer ago.
"I will endure this training" "I will return safely"
In each letter they wrote, the child's fears, resolve, and thoughts for their family are evident. Perhaps there were boys who left only their inscriptions without returning from the mountains.
Walking after knowing, Hōyō-ji
Now, if you visit Hōyō-ji, it appears to be a tranquil temple set in a quiet rural area. The tourist guidebooks merely mention it as "one of the Aizu Five Cherry Blossoms, Tora-no-O Sakura" and "a significant cultural property of the prefecture, the three-storied pagoda."
When we guide visitors at Hōyō-ji, we ask them to approach the pillar of the Kannon Hall first and focus their eyes. The moment they murmur, "Oh, I can see the letters", their expressions change. The experience of worshiping in the main hall from that point becomes entirely different.
Walking after knowing that this used to be a grand temple housing 33 monk quarters and was a place of life-threatening training for 13-year-old boys every summer reveals a completely different landscape.
If you stop in front of the Kannon Hall, the image of boys bathing in cold water suddenly overlaps with the precincts. Looking up at the pillar, the faint traces of the inscriptions seem to speak across time.
I believe that travel is ultimately about this. It's not about where you travel, but how much you know and walk.
If you visit Hōyō-ji
Hōyō-ji is located in Suzuririn, Aizumisato Town, Ōnuma District, Fukushima Prefecture. It is about a 30-minute drive from the city of Aizuwakamatsu. It is situated in the rural area heading south from Aizuwakamatsu and Tsuruga Castle.
Three-Story Pagoda and Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom
The three-story pagoda in the precincts is designated as an important cultural property of Fukushima Prefecture (not nationally designated. Snow country three-story pagodas are rare, and this architecture tells the weight of the temple's history). In spring, one of Aizu's five cherry blossoms, the "Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom," blooms in the precincts, and the combination of cherry blossoms and the three-story pagoda is one of Aizu's top spring landscapes.
Kannon Hall and Inscribed Pillars
The inscriptions by boys remaining on the pillars of Kannon Hall have faded with time to the point that they can easily be overlooked if not observed carefully. When you visit, please get close to the pillars and try to find those traces.
Places to Visit Together
- Isasumi Shrine (Aizumisato Town) ── An ancient shrine, the main shrine of Aizu. A core of Aizu faith that you want to visit along with Hōyō-ji.
- Heijiji Ruins (Bandai Town) ── One of the oldest temples in Tohoku, founded by the Bodhisattva Tokui in the early Heian period. A day to trace the Buddhist history of Aizu.
- Aizuwakamatsu - Tsuruga Castle ── About a 30-minute drive from Hōyō-ji.
A journey to encounter stories, would you like to join?
At Tabinoito, guide Catherine, who has lived in Urabandai and Aizu for half a century, shares stories of the land that are not found in guidebooks, providing exclusive tours for one group per day.
For those who want to trace the stories of Hōyō-ji and Mount Iide, those who wish to pilgrimage to ancient temples in Aizu, or those who want to see the Tiger's Tail Cherry Blossom in the cherry blossom season, we will tour at your pace for that day. You can leave all long-distance driving and arrangements to us.
"I want to know more about history" or "I want to leisurely explore with my spouse" ── Whatever your request, feel free to ask. Just a consultation is also OK, and we will not engage in any pushy solicitation.
👉 Get a free consultation via LINE:
https://page.line.me/tabinoito
👉 View travel plans for senior couples:
https://tabinoito.com/senior/
👉 View travel plans for filial piety:
https://tabinoito.com/oyakouko/
Related Articles:
The Village Sunken Beneath the Lake ── Memories of Hibara Village Lost in the 1888 Eruption of Mount Bandai
Tokuichi Bosatsu and Eijiji ── Why Did They Leave the Capital and Come to Aizu?
Reference Materials
- Houyouji (Aizumisato Town Tourism Navi 'Misatono')
- Houyouji (Wikipedia)
- Iide Mountain (Wikipedia)
- On-site coverage (Visit and interview by Tabinoito guide, Catherine)
About the Author
Catherine ── A guide who has lived in Fukushima Prefecture, Urabandai, and Aizu for half a century. Founder of the private tour company 'Tabinoito'. With over 30 years of guiding experience, she is deeply knowledgeable about the local nature, history, and cultural beliefs. Offering personalized tours limited to one group per day, she shares stories of the land that are not found in guidebooks while showing you around Urabandai and Aizu.
