When you visit temples and shrines, where do you focus your attention on the buildings?
While it's wonderful to admire the overall grandeur and size, focusing on the curvature of the roof and the complex wooden framework that supports the pillars reveals the incredible determination of our predecessors in their battle against the harsh nature, as well as the truths of the universe (feng shui and beliefs) hidden in the design.
This time, while touching on some basic terms of traditional Japanese architecture, I will guide you through the definitive differences between the architecture of Kyoto and Nara and that of Aizu, as well as the mysteries of feng shui hidden in castles. Knowing this will dramatically enhance your temple visits starting tomorrow!
1. Aizu vs Kyoto & Nara! Differences in Architectural Philosophy
In short, while the architecture of Kyoto and Nara is characterized by "refinement of style and authority," Aizu's architecture contrasts with "adaptation to harsh nature and unique design."
① Roof Shape (The Battle Against Snow)
- Aizu (Snow Country Specification): Designed with a very steep slope to withstand the weight of snow (snow load) and to shed snow. The attic uses a "suspension structure" made of thick logs, providing a sturdy framework that can withstand vertical pressure.
- Kyoto & Nara (Aesthetic Focus): With less concern for snow, the roof's peak gracefully curves upwards towards the sky, emphasizing the elegant curve known as "sori-mashi".
② Roof Material (The Battle Against Freezing)
- Aizu (Red Tiles): The "red tiles (salt-glazed tiles)" seen in places like Tsuruga Castle. These are high-tech materials that are coated with a glass-like surface during firing, preventing moisture absorption and protecting against cracking due to winter freezing (frost cracking).
- Kyoto & Nara (Traditional Tiles & Hinoki Bark Roof): Due to the mild climate, "hinoki bark roof (hiwadabuki: a roof made of tree bark)" and heavy black "traditional tiles" are used to signify status.
2. Impress Your Friends! The "Insider Highlights" of Shrine and Temple Architecture
There are many architectural terms, but I will introduce a few key highlight parts that you should definitely remember during your sightseeing.
Three Parts to Remember
・Tokyou (Dōkyo) / Kumimono: This refers to the intricately combined wooden framework that sits atop the pillars, resembling a puzzle. It is a super important part that disperses the heavy roof load and directs it to a single pillar. As time progressed, the decorations became more elaborate, making it the biggest "highlight" of shrine and temple architecture.
・Kōryō: A type of horizontal beam (girder) that connects the pillars, named for its slight upward curve resembling a "rainbow" after the rain. It often features magnificent carvings of dragons and waves, so be sure to check it out.
・Gegyo: A board-shaped decoration hanging from the triangular part of the roof (gabled end). It takes the shape of a "fish" or "water plants" and is a water charm (sorcery) that protects buildings from the "fire" which is the nemesis of wooden architecture.
3. A structure that controls invisible forces (Feng Shui, sorcery)
Japanese architecture incorporates not only physical "strength" but also Feng Shui at the urban planning level to protect cities from "invisible disasters (demons and evil spirits)".
It is famous that Kyoto is an ideal place for Feng Shui, but in fact, Aizuwakamatsu is also designed as a perfect Feng Shui city modeled after Kyoto.
For example, in Kyoto, Hieizan Enryakuji is placed to block the northeast "Kimon (an ominous direction where evil spirits enter)". The exact same structure exists in Aizu.
Aizu's Kimon Sealing: Tsuruga Castle and Haniyasu Shrine
The Haniyasu Shrine in Inawashiro, where the founder of the Aizu domain, Masayuki Hoshina, rests, is located exactly in the northeast (Ushi-Tora) direction of the Kimon when viewed from Tsuruga Castle. Following Masayuki's will to "become a god and protect Aizu's Kimon after death," Tsuruga Castle (the center of the present world) and Haniyasu Shrine (a spiritual breakwater) work together to create a massive L-shaped barrier to protect the city of Aizu from calamities.
Additionally, the northeast corner of Tsuruga Castle's stone wall is intentionally recessed as a Feng Shui sign of protection, indicating "no horns = no demons".
Experience overwhelming wisdom and beauty through fieldwork
How was it?
Jumping over the rules of Kyoto and Nara, Aizu has many miraculous architectures that have evolved uniquely, such as the "Aizu Sazae-do (double spiral structure)" born from the rationality unique to snowy countries and the intense faith, and the massive atrium "Shingu Kumano Shrine Nagatoko" without walls.
At "Tabinoito", we offer tours in an academic style that interprets the meanings of these architectural parts and the grand design of the city from a local perspective.
"Why is this roof shaped like this?" "Why was it built in this direction?"
Join us for an architectural exploration that unravels the codes of history, and let's delve into the deep charm of Aizu together.
[Join us for adult fieldwork that decodes history]
A journey that comfortably tours the real breath of history, different from period dramas, in a dedicated vehicle.
A dedicated guide will introduce you to the stories of Aizu that are not found in textbooks.
First, feel free to consult us via LINE.
