A short distance from the city center of Kitakata, you will find the quiet mountain area of 'Atsushio Onsen Village'. True to its name, this hot spring town is known for its hot water rich in salt. At the end of this town, there is a temple that exudes a majestic atmosphere.
The famous Soto Zen temple "Gohōzan Jigenji". In fact, this temple was founded by a monk with an incredible legend related to the super famous "Great Yokai" known from anime and kabuki.
This time, we will guide you to the deep highlights of Jigenji, where various dramas of Japanese history are condensed within a single precinct.
[Mystery ①] The "Gennoo (げんのう) Monk" who crushed the nine-tailed fox
An essential figure in discussing Jigenji is the "Zen Master Gennoo Shinshou (げんのうしんしょう)" who revitalized this temple in 1375.
Are you familiar with the legend of the "nine-tailed fox"? This terrifying golden-haired nine-tailed fox transformed into an unparalleled beauty to gain favor with powerful figures in China and Japan, attempting to destroy nations. Discovered by an onmyoji, it fled to Nasuno (Tochigi Prefecture) and became a massive cursed stone (Sesshoseki), continuing to take the lives of any living creature that approached.
The super monk who became the origin of the word "kanzuchi"
For centuries, no one could approach this cursed stone, but the super monk who smashed it with a large hammer and successfully calmed the fox's grudge is none other than this Gennoo monk. (By the way, the reason we still call the carpenter's hammer "genno" today comes from him!)
In the Kaizan-do located in the precinct, there is a wooden statue that the monk carved while looking at his own reflection in the pond, and it continues to quietly watch over this land.
[Mystery ②] The carpenter from Echigo and the shadow of the "Kirishitan" lurking in the precinct
As you walk through the precinct of Jigenji, you will encounter the mysteries of history one after another.
For example, the "Kannon Hall," which is also the 5th sacred site of the Aizu Thirty-three Kannon. The exquisite pine and chrysanthemum openwork carvings here are masterpieces that convey the style of the Azuchi-Momoyama period. These were created by a skilled group of craftsmen known as "Masedaiku" from Niigata, who came to work during the agricultural off-season. They were considered a kind of "top brand" in Aizu at that time.
As you further explore the precinct and step into the burial area, you will encounter a breathtaking sight.
Traces of prayer: The stone Buddha with a cross
Among the group of Jizo statues, there is a stone Buddha clearly holding a staff with a "cross" engraved on it. The stone pagodas in front of it are arranged in a way that resembles a monastery's mass, unlike the typical five-ring pagodas found in ordinary temples.
In fact, Jigenji was one of the temples that was carefully protected during the time of the fervent Kirishitan daimyo, Katō Kiyomasa. What thoughts did people have as they offered prayers to this stone Buddha during the harsh era of persecution?
From the freedom and civil rights movement to the mother of welfare, and then to nostalgic flavors.
The depth of Shigenji Temple is not just that.
Within the grounds, there quietly stands a memorial grave honoring the patriots who lost their lives in the radical anti-government movement of the Meiji era, the "Kabasan Incident."
Furthermore, on top of that, there is the grave of Iwako Uryu, a pioneer of social welfare in Japan, known as the "Nightingale of Meiji." She cared for the wounded during the Boshin War, regardless of their side, and also helped Noguchi Hideyo's mother obtain her midwifery qualifications. She is a great woman that Aizu takes pride in.
Yokai extermination, hidden Christians, and the turbulent Bakumatsu and Meiji Restoration. After feeling such a dense energy of history, you might want to take a breather with something a little sweet.
Aizu's gentle and nostalgic flavors
For me, "Netsu-shio Onsen (Shigenji)" brings back memories of the famous confection "Kokonoé" that my grandmother often bought as a souvenir. When you float the small yellow grains in hot water, they dissolve with a cute sound, and the fragrance of yuzu spreads gently. It is a gentle and nostalgic local flavor that is still carefully made by the hands of women at "Naraya" in Aizu Shiozawa Town.
At "Tabinoito," we offer a tour in the Academic style that unravels the vast historical drama packed into this one temple grounds, accompanied by the storytelling of our guide.
"I want to have an intellectual experience connecting the scattered traces of history with lines." "I want to savor the deep echoes of history along with local famous sweets."
If you feel this way, why not walk with us through the grounds of Netsu-shio Onsen and Shigenji Temple?
[Connecting the dots and lines of history, an adult fieldwork experience]
A journey that comfortably explores the real breath of history, different from period dramas, in a dedicated vehicle.
Our exclusive guide will introduce you to the stories of Aizu that are not found in textbooks.
Please feel free to consult us via LINE first.
