A short distance from the city center of Kitakata, you can see the quiet mountain area of 'Atsushio Onsen'. True to its name, this hot spring town has hot water rich in salt. At the end of this town, there is a temple that exudes a majestic atmosphere.
The famous temple of the Soto school, "Hohosan Jigenji." In fact, this temple was founded by a monk with an incredible legend related to the super famous "Great Yokai," which is well-known in anime and kabuki.
This time, we will guide you through the deep highlights of Jigenji, where various dramas of Japanese history are condensed within a single precinct.
[Mystery ①] The "Gennoo (Gennou) Monk" who crushed the nine-tailed fox
Essential to the story of Jigenji is the "Zen Master Gennoo Shinshou," who restored this temple in 1375.
Are you familiar with the legend of the "nine-tailed fox"? This fearsome golden-haired nine-tailed fox transformed into an unparalleled beauty to ingratiate itself with powerful figures in China and Japan, attempting to destroy nations. Discovered by an onmyoji, it fled to Nasuno (Tochigi Prefecture) and became a giant poisonous stone (Sesshoseki), continuing to take the lives of any living creature that approached.
The super monk who became the origin of the word "kanzuchi"
For centuries, no one could approach this Sesshoseki, but the super monk who shattered it with a large hammer and successfully quelled the fox's resentment is none other than this Gennoo monk. (By the way, the term "genno" used today for carpentry tools refers to him!)
In the Kaizan-do located in the precinct, there is a wooden statue that the monk carved while looking at his own reflection in the pond, and it continues to quietly watch over this land.
[Mystery ②] The carpenter from Echigo and the shadow of the "Kirishitan" lurking in the precinct
As you walk through the precinct of Jigenji, you will encounter one historical mystery after another.
For example, the "Kannon-do," which is also the 5th temple of the Aizu Thirty-three Kannon. The exquisite pine and chrysanthemum openwork carvings here are masterpieces that convey the style of the Azuchi-Momoyama period. This was created by a skilled group of craftsmen known as "Masedaiku" from Niigata, who came to work during the agricultural off-season. At that time in Aizu, they were a sort of "top brand."
As you further stroll through the precinct and step into the burial area, you will encounter a breathtaking sight.
Traces of Prayer: The Stone Buddha with a Cross
Among the group of Jizo statues, there is a stone Buddha holding a staff clearly engraved with a "cross". The stone towers in front of it are arranged in a manner that resembles a monastery's mass, unlike the typical five-ring towers found in ordinary temples.
In fact, Jigenji was one of the temples that was carefully protected during the time of the fervent Kirishitan daimyo, Katō Kiyomasa. What thoughts did people have as they offered prayers to this stone Buddha during the harsh era of persecution?
From the Freedom and People's Rights Movement to the Mother of Welfare, and then to nostalgic flavors
The depth of Shigenji Temple is not limited to that.
Within the grounds, there quietly stands a memorial grave for the patriots who lost their lives during the radical anti-government movement of the Meiji era, the Kabasan Incident.
Above that, there is also the grave of Iwako Uryu, a pioneer of social welfare in Japan, known as the "Nightingale of Meiji." She cared for the wounded during the Boshin War, regardless of friend or foe, and helped Noguchi Hideyo's mother obtain midwifery qualifications. She is a great woman that Aizu is proud of.
After feeling such a dense energy of history, you might want to take a break with something a little sweet.
Aizu's gentle and nostalgic flavors
For me, "Netsu-shio Onsen (Shigenji)" brings back memories of the famous confection "Kokonoé" that my grandmother often bought as a souvenir. When you float the small yellow grains in hot water, they dissolve with a cute sound, and the aroma of yuzu gently spreads. This is a gentle and nostalgic taste of the region, still carefully made by the hands of women at "Naraya" in Aizu Shiozawa Town.
At "Tabinoito," we offer a tour in the Academic style that unravels the vast historical drama packed into one temple grounds, along with the storytelling of our guides.
"I want to have an intellectual experience connecting the scattered traces of history with lines." "I want to savor the deep echoes of history along with local famous sweets."
If you feel this way, why not walk with us through the grounds of Netsu-shio Onsen and Shigenji Temple?
[Connecting the dots and lines of history, an adult fieldwork experience]
A journey that comfortably explores the real breath of history, different from period dramas, in a dedicated vehicle.
Our exclusive guide will introduce you to the stories of Aizu that are not found in textbooks.
First, feel free to consult with us via LINE.
