'First, marry a good wife; second, have grandchildren; third, build a treasure storehouse.'
In Fukushima Prefecture's Kitakata City, an old saying goes, 'First, marry a good wife; second, have grandchildren; third, build a treasure storehouse.' It means that a man's life is truly successful when he has a good wife, an heir, and a magnificent kura.
It was even said, 'If a man at forty cannot own a kura, he cannot be considered a full-fledged adult.' Today, after municipal mergers, Kitakata City has more than 4,000 existing kura. Considering the population ratio, this is an incredible density.
Why did the people of Kitakata pour so much passion into building "kura"? This time, we will guide you through the hot pride of the men of Kitakata and their unique business philosophy (culture) hidden behind the nostalgic landscape.
Not just a storage shed. The ultimate status: "kurazashiki"
When we think of a typical kura, we imagine a "storage space" for rice and household goods. However, the biggest feature of the kura in Kitakata is that many of them are built as "kurazashiki," designed for people to live comfortably and welcome guests.
Men's absolute status
There are kura equipped with large halls that can host grand banquets for weddings and funerals, and kura where retired grandfathers live. Some even have an outdoor toilet (kawaya) built in the same style as the kura, showcasing an incredible commitment to detail known as "kawayagura."
There was even an unspoken rule among matchmakers at the time that "it is acceptable to exaggerate the number of kura up to three," making the number and size of kura an "absolute status of family lineage and economic power."
The epitome of luxury! The massive kura known as "Ujō" made of black plaster
Among the kura in Kitakata, the pinnacle of luxury is the kura-zashiki of "Kai Honke (registered tangible cultural property)." The exterior walls are all coated with the finest "black plaster," and its massive, glossy appearance earned it the name "Ujō (the castle of a giant crow)."
[Academic Perspective] The teachings of "Tōju Gaku" that gave birth to the kura town
So, why did commerce develop so much in Kitakata, and why did the culture of building kura take root? The answer lies in the academic thought known as "Tōju Gaku (the teachings of Nakagoe Tōju)" that permeated Kitakata during the Edo period.
Confucianism vs. Tōju Gaku
At that time, the Edo Shogunate upheld "Confucianism," which valued the class system (samurai, farmers, artisans, merchants) as an absolute rule. However, the people of Kitakata supported Tōju Gaku, which was more practical and aligned with human nature.
In a nutshell, the teachings of Tōju Gaku state, "Both the ruling class and the common people are equal. Competing vigorously and fairly accumulating wealth is not a disgrace, but rather a wonderful thing!" If you were a merchant at that time, how much relief and motivation would you have felt hearing this teaching amidst the strict class system of the Shogunate?
This "free and positive business philosophy" combined with the intense rivalry and pride towards Aizuwakamatsu (the castle town) became the energy of "Alright, I'll build a magnificent storehouse too!" and created the beautiful streets we see today.
A photographer who protected the disappearing landscapes
During the high economic growth period of the Showa era, old storehouses were on the verge of being destroyed one after another as "outdated and bothersome things." The one who saved them was the local photographer, Minoru Kaneda. He captured the beauty of the vanishing storehouses in photographs and held exhibitions to make the townspeople realize that "the scenery of these storehouses is an overwhelming treasure unique to Kitakata."
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in an Academic style that not only allow you to view these storehouses in Kitakata but also explain the philosophy of "Fujiki Gaku" and the men's determination and pride behind them.
Filled with passionate stories that can only be experienced on-site, such as the romantic episode of Yamato River Sake Brewery, which "laid tracks and pulled the entire storehouse (relocated it)". Why not join us for a fieldwork experience that touches on the "essence of Kitakata" as told by the 4,000 storehouses?
