'First, marry a good wife; second, have grandchildren; third, build a treasure kura.'
In Fukushima Prefecture, Kitakata City, there is an old saying: 'First, marry a good wife; second, have grandchildren; third, build a treasure kura.' It means that a man's life is truly successful when he has a good wife, an heir, and a splendid kura.
It was even said that 'if a man at forty does not have a kura, he cannot be considered a full-fledged man.' Today, after municipal mergers, Kitakata City has more than 4,000 kura still existing. When considering the population ratio, this is an astonishing density.
Why did the people of Kitakata pour so much passion into building "kura"? This time, we will guide you through the hot pride of the men of Kitakata and their unique business philosophy hidden behind the nostalgic landscape.
Not just a storage. The ultimate status "kura-zashiki"
When we think of a typical kura, we imagine a "storage shed" for rice and household goods. However, the biggest feature of the kura in Kitakata is that many of them are built as "kura-zashiki," designed for people to live comfortably and welcome guests.
Men's absolute status
There are kura with large halls that can host grand banquets for weddings and funerals, and kura where retired grandfathers live. Some even go as far as to build the outside toilet (kawaya) in the style of a kura, showcasing an incredible commitment to detail with the "kawaya-gura".
At that time, there was an unspoken rule among matchmakers that "it is permissible to exaggerate the number of kura up to three (to say it grandly)," so the number and size of kura were considered an "absolute status of family lineage and economic power."
The epitome of luxury! The giant kura called "Ujō" made of black plaster
Among the kura in Kitakata, the pinnacle of luxury is the kura-zashiki of "Kai Honke (Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property)." Its outer walls are entirely covered with the finest "black plaster," and due to its massive and glossy appearance, it was called "Ujō (the castle of a giant crow)."
[Academic Perspective] The teachings of "Tōju Gaku" that gave birth to the town of kura
So, why did commerce develop so much in Kitakata, and why did the culture of building kura take root? The answer lies in the academic thought of "Tōju Gaku (the teachings of Nakai Tōju)" that permeated Kitakata during the Edo period.
Confucianism vs Tōju Gaku
At that time, the Edo Shogunate regarded the class system (samurai, farmers, artisans, merchants) and Confucianism as absolute rules. However, the people of Kitakata supported the more practical and human-centered Tōju Gaku.
In a nutshell, the teachings of Tōju Gaku state, "Both the rulers and the common people are all equal. Competing vigorously and earning wealth legitimately is not a disgrace, but rather a wonderful thing!" If you were a merchant at that time, how much relief and motivation would you have felt hearing this teaching amidst the strict class system of the shogunate?
This "free and positive business philosophy" has combined with the intense rivalry and pride towards Aizuwakamatsu (the castle town), creating the energy of "Alright, I'll build a magnificent storehouse too!" which has shaped the beautiful streets we see today.
A photographer who protected the disappearing landscapes
During the high economic growth period of the Showa era, old storehouses were on the verge of being demolished one after another as "outdated and obstructive things." The one who saved them was a local photographer, Minoru Kaneda. He captured the beauty of the vanishing storehouses in photographs and held exhibitions, making the townspeople realize that "these storehouse landscapes are overwhelming treasures unique to Kitakata."
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in an academic style that not only allow you to view these storehouses in Kitakata but also explain the philosophy of "Fujiki Gaku" and the pride and determination of the men behind them.
Filled with passionate stories that can only be experienced on-site, such as the romantic episode of Yamato River Sake Brewery, which "laid down rails and pulled the entire structure (relocated it)". Why not join us for a fieldwork experience that touches on the "essence of Kitakata" as told by the 4,000 storehouses?
