'First, marry a good wife; second, have grandchildren; third, build a treasure storehouse.'
In Kitakata City, Fukushima Prefecture, an old saying has been passed down for generations: a man's life is considered a great success only when he has a good wife, an heir, and a magnificent storehouse.
It was even said that "if a man does not have a storehouse by the age of forty, he cannot be considered a full-fledged adult." Today, after municipal mergers, Kitakata City still has over 4,000 existing storehouses, which is an astonishing density when considered in terms of population ratio.
Why did the people of Kitakata pour so much passion into building "storehouses"? This time, we will guide you through the hidden pride of the men of Kitakata and their unique business philosophy (culture) behind the nostalgic landscapes.
Not just a storage room. The ultimate status: "Kurazashiki"
When we think of a typical storehouse, we imagine a "storage place" for rice and household goods. However, the biggest feature of Kitakata's storehouses is that many are built as "Kurazashiki," designed for people to live comfortably and welcome guests.
A man's absolute status
There are storehouses equipped with large halls capable of hosting grand banquets for weddings and funerals, as well as detached storehouses where retired grandfathers live. Some even go so far as to build the outdoor toilet (kawaya) in the same style as the storehouse, showcasing an incredible commitment to the "Kawayagura".
There was even an unspoken rule among matchmakers at the time that "it is permissible to exaggerate the number of storehouses up to three," indicating that the number and size of storehouses were seen as an "absolute status of family lineage and economic power."
The epitome of luxury! The giant storehouse known as "Ujō" made of black plaster
Among the storehouses in Kitakata, the most luxurious is the Kurazashiki of "Kai Honke (Registered Tangible Cultural Property)". Its exterior is entirely coated with the highest quality "black plaster (kuroshikkui)", and due to its massive and glossy appearance, it was called "Ujō (the castle of a giant crow)".
A construction cost of 500 million yen!? The grand episode of "Ujō"
The fourth-generation head, Kai Yoshigorō, invested seven years and a vast fortune (over 500 million yen in today's value!) from the age of 40 to gather precious woods from all over the country to create what is truly the crystallization of a "man's lifelong dream."
During the construction, up to 90 craftsmen worked tirelessly on the garden every day. Because he generously distributed 10-sen bills (the currency at the time) as tea money daily, there are even grand tales that neighbors speculated, "Is Mr. Kai printing money at his house...?"
[Academic Perspective] The teachings of "Tōju Gaku" that gave birth to the town of storehouses
So, why did commerce develop so much in Kitakata, and why did the culture of building storehouses take root? The answer lies in the academic thought known as "Tōju Gaku (the teachings of Nakagoe Tōju)" that permeated Kitakata during the Edo period.
Confucianism vs. Tōju Gaku
At that time, the Edo Shogunate upheld the class system (samurai, farmers, artisans, and merchants) as an absolute rule with "Confucianism." However, the people of Kitakata supported Tōju Gaku, which was more practical and aligned with human nature.
In a nutshell, the teachings of Fujigaku can be summarized as "Whether high or low, all humans are equal. Competing vigorously and earning wealth justly is not a shameful act, but rather a wonderful one!" If you were a merchant at that time, how much would your heart have been saved and your motivation boosted by hearing this teaching amidst the strict class system of the shogunate?
This "free and positive business philosophy" combined with a strong sense of rivalry and pride towards Aizuwakamatsu (the castle town) turned into the energy of "Alright, I will build a magnificent storehouse too!" and created the beautiful streets we see today.
A photographer who protected the disappearing landscape
During the high economic growth period of the Showa era, old storehouses were about to be demolished one after another as "outdated nuisances." The one who saved them was a local photographer, Minoru Kaneda. He captured the beauty of the vanishing storehouses in photographs and held exhibitions to make the townspeople realize, "This landscape of storehouses is an overwhelming treasure unique to Kitakata."
At "Tabinoito," we offer tours in the 【Academic】 style that not only allow you to view these storehouses in Kitakata but also explain the philosophy of "Fujigaku" and the pride and spirit of the men behind them.
Filled with passionate stories that can only be experienced on-site, such as the romantic episode of Yamato River Sake Brewery, which "laid tracks and pulled the entire storehouse (relocated it)," why not join us for a fieldwork experience that touches the "essence of Kitakata" as told by the 4,000 storehouses?
[A fieldwork experience that touches the essence of history for adults]
A journey that comfortably explores the real breath of history, different from period dramas, in a dedicated vehicle.
A dedicated guide will introduce you to the stories of Aizu that are not found in textbooks.
Feel free to consult us via LINE first.
